What Is Raw Denim: A Guide for Apparel Brands & Designers

If you’re building a premium apparel line, raw denim is a fabric that offers both exceptional quality and the ability to transform over time. Unlike mass-produced denim, it evolves with the wearer, developing unique fades and a personalized fit, making each pair truly one-of-a-kind.

This guide will walk you through the basics of raw denim—what it is, how it’s made, and how to incorporate it into your designs. By the end, you’ll have the knowledge to confidently source and use raw denim, creating pieces that grow more distinctive with every wear.

What Is Raw Denim?

Before you dive into working with raw denim, you need to understand what you’re actually dealing with. Raw denim is unwashed, untreated cotton fabric that’s been dyed with indigo and left in its purest state—straight off the loom. It’s stiff, 暗い, and ready to mold itself to your vision (and your customer’s body).

Here’s what sets raw denim apart. You’ll encounter two main types:

• Sanforized raw denim has been pre-shrunk, so it’ll shrink minimally (about 1-3%) after the first wash.
• Unsanforized raw denim hasn’t been treated, meaning it can shrink up to 10% when it hits water for the first time.

For testing and handling raw denim, keep a few basics on hand: a measuring tape for tracking shrinkage, a fabric swatch for wash tests, and a notebook to document the break-in process. You’re not just working with fabric—you’re managing an evolution.

How to Identify Raw Denim?

stiffness

When you examine raw denim, the first thing you’ll notice is its stiffness. It feels almost cardboard-like in your hands—that’s the sizing at work, a starch-like substance applied during manufacturing that keeps the fabric rigid. This isn’t a flaw; it’s the hallmark of unwashed denim straight from the loom.

色

Look closely at the color. Raw denim has a deep, rich indigo that’s darker and more uniform than pre-washed jeans, with no artificial fading, whiskering, or distressing. The indigo dye coats the surface of the cotton fibers, not penetrating them, which is what allows those high-contrast fades to develop as the denim ages. For those looking to maintain that rich color and prevent any unwanted indigo bleed, you can refer to our Guide to Color Fastness in Denim for tips.

Weight & テクスチャ

Feel the weight and texture. Raw denim is noticeably heavier and denser than its pre-washed counterparts. That density comes from the tight weave and the fact that no washing process has softened or broken down the fibers yet.

Raw Denim vs. Pre-Washed Denim: A Quick Comparison

• 生デニム feels substantial and structured, with a crisp hand.
• Pre-washed Denim drapes more easily and feels softer from the start.
• 生デニム maintains its shape firmly, while Pre-washed Denim is more pliable and flexible.

This initial rigidity of raw denim isn’t something to shy away from—it’s the starting point of the break-in process that makes it so special.

The Manufacturing Process of Raw Denim

Raw Denim Production

Raw denim production begins with shuttle looms, traditional machines that weave denim slowly, resulting in a denser and more durable fabric. The process of dyeing with indigo is meticulous, as the dye sits on the surface of the yarn, not penetrating the fibers. This creates the potential for distinct high-contrast fades over time. Unlike synthetic dyes, which fully saturate the fibers, indigo leaves a more authentic and unique finish.

Once the denim is woven and dyed, it moves to the finishing stage, where it may undergo sanforization or remain unsanforized. Sanforization is a pre-shrinking process that reduces future shrinkage, while unsanforized denim can shrink up to 10% after washing. This difference is critical when designing fits, as unsanforized denim may dramatically alter the shape after the first wash.

Technical Challenges

Raw denim production comes with unique technical challenges, especially concerning quality control. Key factors include weave density, consistent dyeing, and clean selvedge edges if you are using selvedge denim. These elements are essential for ensuring durability and the ability of the denim to age well. Poor craftsmanship during any stage can significantly affect the final product’s quality, compromising both its look and feel.

To ensure premium results, it’s critical to partner with mills that prioritize these aspects and have a deep understanding of raw denim production. Any shortcuts in the process can damage the fabric’s long-term appeal and, in turn, hurt your brand’s reputation.

The Break-In & Fading Process: Creating Unique Denim

Breaking In Raw Denim

When your customers first wear raw denim, they’ll notice its stiffness—almost cardboard-like in texture. This rigidity is part of what makes raw denim special. As they continue to wear the jeans, the fabric gradually softens and molds to their body, adapting to their unique shape, movements, and habits. Over time, the denim becomes more comfortable, developing a fit that’s tailored to the wearer.

The Magic of Fading

Here’s where the transformation happens: because the indigo dye only coats the surface of the fibers, each crease and fold creates high-contrast fades. The areas that experience the most bending—such as behind the knees, around the hips, and at the cuffs—form distinctive whiskers and honeycombs. These personalized patterns make every pair of jeans truly unique, creating a “living record” of the wearer’s lifestyle.

Guiding Your Customers

Encourage your customers to embrace the break-in process by wearing their jeans as much as possible in the first few months. The more frequently they wear the jeans before the first wash, the more dramatic and authentic the fades will be. When it’s time to wash, advise them to turn the jeans inside out, use cold water, and air dry. With less frequent washing, the denim will age beautifully, rewarding patience and creating a truly one-of-a-kind pair of jeans.

Why Raw Denim is Priced Higher?

Raw denim’s premium price reflects the quality of its craftsmanship. The tightly woven cotton, precise indigo dyeing, and skilled production processes all contribute to a fabric that’s not only durable but also ages uniquely over time. Unlike mass-produced denim, which is quickly treated with industrial washing, raw denim evolves with the wearer, making it a product that grows in value the longer it’s worn.

For customers, raw denim represents more than just a pair of jeans. It’s an investment in a product that improves over time—developing personalized fades, custom fits, and lasting durability. By focusing on features like sanforization, selvedge construction, and natural shrinkage, you can help customers understand why raw denim justifies a higher price: they’re paying for a product that will evolve and stay relevant for years to come.

デニム生地 & Selvedge: Key Differences Comparison Table

Aspect	生デニム	セルベッジデニム
Definition	Unwashed, untreated denim directly from the dyeing process.	Denim woven on traditional shuttle looms with self-finished edges to prevent fraying.
Key Feature	Lack of treatment (no washes or distressing).	Clean, durable edges with signature selvedge lines.
Break-in Process	Develops unique fades as it molds to the body over time.	Similar break-in process, but edges remain intact due to the selvedge construction.
Production Method	Can be woven on any loom, not necessarily traditional.	Woven on slower, narrower shuttle looms, making it a more artisanal process.
Cost	Generally lower cost compared to selvedge due to quicker production.	Typically more expensive due to the slower, traditional weaving method and limited yardage.
Durability	Strong and durable, but depends on the weaving method used.	Typically more durable due to tighter weave from the shuttle loom process.
Appearance	Solid indigo color, can fade dramatically over time.	Clean selvedge edge visible on the inside of the cuff or hem, enhancing the aesthetic.
Popularity	Widely popular for its authentic, unwashed feel.	Highly valued for its craftsmanship and the visible selvedge edge, popular with denim enthusiasts.
Combination	Raw denim can be selvedge or non-selvedge.	Selvedge denim can be raw or pre-washed, offering both unwashed and treated options.

Care and Maintenance for Raw Denim

Proper Washing

Washing your raw denim too often can quickly diminish the high-contrast fades you’re working hard to develop. The indigo dye used in raw denim sits on the surface of the fibers, rather than being absorbed into them. As a result, each wash strips away a bit of that rich color and slows down the natural break-in process.

When it’s time to wash your jeans—usually after wearing them for a few months—stick to hand washing or a cold machine wash with a mild, dye-free detergent. Always turn your jeans inside out to protect the outer surface from fading. Avoid using a dryer; instead, air dry your jeans to maintain their shape and prevent shrinkage, particularly with unsanforized denim.

Storage Tips

For proper storage, hang your jeans or fold them carefully along the existing creases. Avoid packing them tightly in drawers or storage spaces, as this can cause unwanted fold marks. If you’re working with selvedge raw denim, store them with the selvedge edge visible. It’s a small but meaningful detail that shows you appreciate the craftsmanship of the fabric and ensures the edges remain intact.

Frequently Asked Questions About Raw Denim

Your Path Forward with Raw Denim

You’ve now gained a comprehensive understanding of raw denim—its unwashed, untreated nature, the difference between sanforized and unsanforized options, and the unique break-in process that leads to personalized fading. With this knowledge, you’re ready to make informed decisions that set your brand apart and offer customers a truly unique product.

Now, it’s time to turn this knowledge into action. で チャンゴン, we specialize in premium denim, offering low MOQ flexibility and expertise in tailoring to your brand’s vision. Get started on crafting denim your customers will cherish for years.