Creating authentic selvedge denim requires expertise in managing key factors like fabric shrinkage. Unsanforized or “loomstate” denim can shrink up to 10%, demanding precise pattern grading and a deep understanding of materials to ensure consistent fit. This attention to detail distinguishes high-quality denim from mass-market products.
This article explores top global suppliers, from renowned Japanese mills to specialized manufacturers. It highlights their ability to source genuine shuttle-loom fabric and maintain high production standards, ensuring the creation of premium, 정통 데님.
The Niche World of Raw Denim
Raw selvedge denim is woven on vintage shuttle looms, giving it a clean, self-finished edge and distinct textures like “혼례” 그리고 “nep.” These imperfections, resulting from slower, lower-tension looms, are prized by denim enthusiasts for their character and history.
Key specs include fabric weight, which ranges from 11 oz for lighter wear to over 21 oz for heavyweight durability. Traditional raw selvedge denim is typically 100% 면, with premium versions using long-staple fibers like Zimbabwe cotton for added softness. 그만큼 “redline” ID stitch, often seen on vintage Cone Mills denim, is a signature feature of high-quality raw selvedge.
Manufacturers like Guangzhou Changhong specialize in sourcing the right fabric and ensuring these technical requirements are met, creating authentic, high-quality denim with true heritage.
Quick Comparison: 맨 위 10 날것의 & Selvedge Denim Manufacturers
| 제조업체 | 위치 | Main products | 특징 |
|---|---|---|---|
| 광저우 찬행 의류 (Guangzhou Changhong Garment Co.), Ltd | 광저우, 광동, 중국 | 청바지, Denim Garments | High-volume OEM/ODM factory for cut-and-sew jean production. |
| Companion Denim | Sabadell (Barcelona area), Spain | 청바지, Denim Garments | Artisan-scale atelier producing small-batch, highly detailed selvedge jeans. |
| Williamsburg Garment Company | New York, 미국 | 청바지, Denim repair services | Small-batch, made-in-USA brand also known for high-end denim alterations. |
| Brave Star Selvedge | Los Angeles, 캘리포니아, 미국 | Selvedge Jeans | Vertically integrated brand focused on USA-made selvedge jeans. |
| Momotaro Jeans / Collect Co. OEM | Kojima, Okayama Prefecture, 일본 | Selvedge Denim Fabric, High-end Jeans | Premier Japanese mill supplying vintage-style selvedge fabric to global brands. |
| Kurabo | Kojima (Okayama), 일본 | Selvedge Denim Fabric, 데님 직물 | Top-tier Japanese conglomerate producing both vintage and modern denim fabric. |
| Kaihara Denim | Fukuyama, Hiroshima Prefecture, 일본 | 원시 데님, 셀비 게 데님, 스트레치 데님 | One of Japan’s largest specialist denim mills, supplying major global brands. |
| Candiani Denim | Robecchetto con Induno, near Milan, Italy | Premium Denim Fabric, 셀비 게 데님, Eco-denim | Leading European mill known for sustainability and supplying luxury brands. |
| Cone Denim | 그린즈버러, NC (HQ); 멕시코, 중국 | Selvedge Denim Fabric, 데님 직물 | A legacy American mill now operating internationally for global fabric supply. |
| Vicunha | São Paulo, Brazil | 데님 직물, Twill Fabric | Mega-scale mill focused on high-volume, wide-loom denim for the mass-market. |
Guangzhou Changhong Garment Co.

- 위치: 광저우, 중국
- Product Types: 데님 청바지, Denim Garments
- MOQ: Medium-to-large production runs
- 주요 시장: 글로벌 (미국, 유럽, 아시아)
Guangzhou Changhong Garment Co. is a leading OEM denim factory based in Guangzhou, 중국, specializing in cut-and-sew 조작. 오버 300 skilled workers, the factory produces 150,000–200,000 jeans monthly, serving both OEM and ODM markets. Changhong focuses on garment construction and finishing, sourcing premium fabrics like selvedge denim from top mills. By concentrating on quality assembly rather than fabric weaving, Changhong delivers high-quality denim garments at scale. This approach ensures efficient production, 빠른 처리, and consistency, making it a trusted partner for brands seeking reliable and superior denim manufacturing.
Companion Denim

- 위치: Sabadell (Barcelona area), Spain
- Product Types: 청바지, Denim Garments
- MOQ: Small-batch production
- 주요 시장: Direct-to-consumer, Niche retailers
Founded in Sabadell, Companion Denim operates as an artisan-scale atelier specializing in high-end, small-batch jeans. Known for its meticulous craftsmanship, the brand focuses on creating unique denim garments rather than mass production. Companion Denim sources premium selvedge fabric from respected mills like Kurabo, 갓, and Candiani. This small-scale operation emphasizes artisanal details, making it a micro-brand that directly serves discerning consumers who appreciate quality over quantity. Their bespoke approach is akin to a fine furniture workshop, where the emphasis is placed on craftsmanship and attention to detail
Williamsburg Garment Co.

- 위치: New York, 미국
- Product Types: 청바지, Denim Repair Services
- MOQ: Small-batch production
- 주요 시장: 미국, Direct retail customers
Williamsburg Garment Co. is a New York-based brand that focuses on American-made jeans and high-quality alteration services. Established with a commitment to domestic production, the company sources premium selvedge denim from various mills, creating jeans that reflect American craftsmanship. Their small-batch production model is akin to a microbrewery, prioritizing quality and local production. They cater to a niche market of customers who value the authenticity and craftsmanship of domestically-made jeans. Williamsburg Garment Co. specializes in providing custom fits and repairs, offering personalized denim services that distinguish them from mass-market brands.
Brave Star Selvedge

- 위치: Los Angeles, 미국
- Product Types: Selvedge Jeans
- MOQ: Small-to-medium production runs (thousands annually)
- 주요 시장: 미국, Direct retail customers
Brave Star Selvedge operates a vertically integrated cut-and-sew facility in Los Angeles, specializing in American-made selvedge jeans. Known for using premium materials like Cone Mills White Oak deadstock selvedge, their production is highly controlled, ensuring quality at every step, from fabric cutting to the final stitch. With a focus on high-quality craftsmanship, Brave Star serves both small-batch production runs and larger-scale orders for brands seeking authentic, USA-made denim. Their expertise lies in the final assembly of denim garments, creating a premium product that embodies the legacy of American selvedge.
Momotaro (일본 – OEM arm)

- 위치: 일본
- Product Types: 셀비 게 데님, 청바지
- MOQ: Medium-to-large production runs
- 주요 시장: 글로벌 (유럽, 미국)
Momotaro Jeans, part of the Japan Blue Group, is both a prestigious denim brand and an OEM supplier. The company operates as a vertically integrated manufacturer, crafting premium selvedge denim using vintage shuttle looms. Their approach combines industrial-scale production with the artisanal qualities of traditional denim. Momotaro’s jeans showcase the highest standard of craftsmanship, offering a direct-to-consumer line that reflects their advanced capabilities. Known for their authentic and highly durable denim, Momotaro supplies fabrics to major brands globally, while also promoting their own label as a testament to the quality they deliver.
Kurabo

- 위치: Kojima, 일본
- Product Types: 셀비 게 데님, Fabric for Jeans
- MOQ: Large-scale production
- 주요 시장: 글로벌 (유럽, 미국, 일본)
Kurabo is one of Japan’s original denim mills, headquartered in Kojima, the heart of Japanese denim production. Established with a blend of heritage and modernity, Kurabo operates a massive production scale, supplying tens of millions of meters of fabric annually. Their versatility shines through in the use of both vintage shuttle looms for authentic selvedge denim and advanced robotic machinery for high-volume production. This dual capability allows Kurabo to cater to a wide range of customers, from high-end boutiques to large brands seeking large-scale orders. Kurabo’s commitment to quality and innovation has made them a top-tier global supplier.
갓 (Mill)

- 위치: Fukuyama, Hiroshima, 일본
- Product Types: 셀비 게 데님, 데님 직물
- MOQ: Large-scale production
- 주요 시장: 글로벌 (Major brands like Levi’s, Uniqlo)
Kaihara is one of Japan’s largest specialist denim mills, with an annual production capacity of tens of millions of meters. Known for its blend of tradition and innovation, Kaihara runs modern integrated facilities for high-volume production while maintaining a significant fleet of vintage shuttle looms for crafting authentic selvedge denim. Their diverse production capabilities allow them to cater to both global giants like Levi’s and niche denim brands. With a rich heritage and forward-thinking approach, Kaihara has solidified its position as a key supplier for high-quality denim fabrics worldwide.
Candiani (Italy)

- 위치: Milan, Italy
- Product Types: 셀비 게 데님, Premium Denim Fabrics
- MOQ: Medium-to-large production runs
- 주요 시장: 유럽, 미국, Luxury brands
Candiani Denim, based near Milan, is a leading European denim mill renowned for its commitment to sustainability and innovation. Specializing in premium denim, Candiani supplies fabrics to high-end brands like Nudie Jeans, Diesel, and Levi’s premium lines. The mill operates at a large scale, producing 25–30 million meters of denim annually, with a dedicated selvedge line using traditional shuttle looms. Candiani’s blend of Italian craftsmanship and eco-friendly practices has made it a go-to supplier for luxury and high-performance denim, focusing on both style and sustainability.
Cone Denim (Mill)

- 위치: 노스캐롤라이나, 미국 (now operates in Mexico and China)
- Product Types: 데님 직물, 셀비 게 데님
- MOQ: Large-scale production
- 주요 시장: 글로벌 (미국, 유럽, 아시아)
Cone Denim has been a cornerstone of American textile history, best known for its iconic White Oak Plant, which was the exclusive supplier of redline selvedge denim for Levi’s 501s. While the North Carolina plant has since closed, Cone Denim continues to thrive with operations in Mexico and China. The mill produces high-quality denim fabrics, including both traditional and modern styles, for a wide range of apparel brands worldwide. Known for its consistency and scale, Cone Denim remains a trusted name in the industry, offering reliable denim for mass-market and premium brands alike.
Vicunha

- 위치: São Paulo, Brazil
- Product Types: 데님 직물, Twill Fabric
- MOQ: High-volume production
- 주요 시장: Latin America, 유럽, 아시아, Global mass-market
Vicunha is one of the largest denim and twill mills in the Southern Hemisphere, with a staggering production capacity exceeding 200 million meters annually. The mill’s focus is on wide-loom denim, catering primarily to the mass-market and fast-fashion industries. Vicunha’s scale and efficiency make it a major supplier for global brands that require high-volume, cost-effective denim. Known for its reliability and consistency, Vicunha plays a crucial role in supplying fabric to retailers across Latin America, 유럽, 그리고 아시아, making it a dominant player in the global textile supply chain.
원단 소싱: Buying Mill Direct vs Factory
Technical Control and Fabric Authenticity
Buying fabric directly from a mill gives you full control over specifications like loom type, 원사 구성, and dyeing methods. This route allows for complete customization, such as creating unique selvedge ID colors or a proprietary “redline” that becomes part of your brand identity.
반면에, sourcing through a factory typically limits you to their pre-selected fabric options, reducing customization opportunities and the ability to influence the fabric’s character from the start.
Operational Differences: MOQ, 비용, and Risk
Mill-direct sourcing often involves higher Minimum Order Quantities (MOQ) but offers direct pricing transparency, giving you clearer control over material costs. Sourcing through a factory typically lowers MOQs and simplifies the process, but the cost is often bundled into the final garment price, offering less transparency.
While mill-direct sourcing increases operational complexity with inventory risk, factories like Changhong streamline logistics, handling the entire fabric supply chain for you.
Your Partner for Premium, End-to-End Custom Denim
Handling Shrinkage in Production
Sanforized vs. Unsanforized Finishes
When creating custom raw denim, the choice between sanforized and unsanforized fabrics is crucial. Sanforized denim is pre-shrunk, ensuring minimal shrinkage (usually under 3%) and making sizing more predictable.
Unsanforized denim, also known as “loomstate,” is raw and will shrink significantly after the first wash—typically 7-10% in length and 5-8% in width. This requires careful planning during production.
Pattern Adjustments and Process Controls
For unsanforized denim, patterns must be adjusted to account for shrinkage. Extra length is added to the inseam and rise, and additional width is included in the waistband.
“To prevent unexpected changes, unsanforized fabric is relaxed for 12-24 hours before cutting,” says the Changhong team. Technical specification sheets are used to define shrinkage tolerance and testing methods (예를 들어, AATCC, ISO) to ensure accuracy and consistency.
최종 생각
Selecting the right raw denim partner requires attention to fabric sourcing, shrinkage management, and the technical details that shape a quality product. Small mistakes in these areas can affect the final outcome and harm your brand’s reputation.
Guangzhou Changhong stands out as a reliable partner for custom raw denim production. With deep expertise and a focus on craftsmanship, Changhong ensures that every garment meets high standards and reflects your brand’s identity. Our careful approach to sourcing and production gives you the confidence to offer premium, authentic denim that justifies a higher price point in the market.
우리에게 연락하세요 today and take the next step in creating exceptional denim for your brand.
자주 묻는 질문
Who makes raw selvedge denim jeans?
Specialist mills weave raw selvedge denim, and enthusiast-focused brands cut and sew the final jeans.
Key American mills like Vidalia Mills use original Draper X-3 shuttle looms from the historic Cone White Oak plant to supply brands such as Left Field NYC and Raleigh Denim.
Japanese mills like Kaihara and Kuroki provide high-quality fabric for brands including 3sixteen and Tellason.
What are the best selvedge denim mills?
The most sought-after mills are known for their quality and heritage. In the USA, Vidalia Mills carries on the Cone Mills White Oak legacy.
Japan is a leader, with mills like Kuroki, Nihon Menpu, and Kaihara supplying vintage-style selvedge to top brands.
In Europe, Italy’s Candiani is a large, family-run producer known for sustainable selvedge denim.
Can factories in China produce high-quality selvedge denim?
예, China has the capacity to produce premium shuttle-loom selvedge denim. The country’s denim industry is vast, with manufacturing hubs like Xintang producing hundreds of millions of jeans annually.
Specialist factories offer vertically integrated services to create high-end selvedge for custom and boutique orders.
로우 데님과 산포라이즈 데님의 차이점은 무엇인가요??
The main difference is shrinkage. Sanforized denim is pre-shrunk at the mill and will only shrink about 1–3%. Unsanforized denim has not been pre-shrunk and can shrink up to 8–10% on the first wash.
Raw denim simply means the fabric is unwashed; it can be either sanforized or unsanforized.
This is important for sizing, as you must buy unsanforized jeans larger to allow for shrinkage.